So your most recent case mod is all done, and it’s an ass kicking work of art. What’s with the plain Jane peripherals? Are those STOCK? Kidding aside, nothing detracts from your efforts on a well executed case mod than the reality check of stock peripherals. Today we're going to cover the basics of painting on a full set of awesome products--Logitech’s MX1000; Saitek’s lighted gaming keyboard with command pad; Hercules' ProphetView 920 flat panel; and Sennheiser's gaming headset. We are going to keep the airbrush and compressor packed away and stick with the trusty spray cans most people have access to. Let’s pimp some peripherals.

Before we begin in earnest, we need to cover some basic rules that apply to any painting project, and also keep in mind that there are many different ways to achieve good results, and that the following methods are just the way we prefer to do things.

Any professional painter will tell you that the first key to a great paint job isn’t shooting the paint, it’s prepping the surface. Paint will not hide blemishes or surface imperfections, it will highlight them. Get the pre-paint surfaces as perfect as you can.

A clean, well ventilated environment that is at the correct temperature is also vital. Dust, pet hair, and the dreaded "bug tracks" ruin more paint jobs than anything else. Temperature is also important to make the paint flow on correctly, and if there is too much humidity in the air your paint can “blush”. The ventilation is very important for your lungs. Paint contains all manner of nasty stuff that can seriously screw you up. We recommend a quality canister style respirator. If you don’t have one, at the very least, paint outside.

Patience is a critical key also. If you rush, your paint job will tell on you. Take your time, let paint coats dry the recommended time between coats. Many thin layers of paint are far better than a thick coat that can create runs, and may be prone to cracking or checking as the paint cures.